![]() This shelf can sit on three blocks of wood to ensure it remains level. Cut a piece of plywood to make a shelf that will sit a few inches off the bottom. We use the white buckets sometimes called "Pickle buckets" that can easily be obtained from hardware stores, breweries and many other sources, any other well sealed plastic container will work. You will need a plastic container with a tight lid. The following instructions will allow you to patina smaller items with relative ease, the same principals can be adapted for larger pieces. This oxide layer is as close as you can come to a natural patina. When brass is exposed to an atmosphere of ammonia vapor it develops a green brown oxide finish. If you try to reach black in a single dipping the color will wipe off. It is possible to turn brass to a graphite like black following the process outlined above, but you will usually need to dip the item at least twice and clean the residue off the surface between dipping. If left unprotected it will continue to age, lacquering or waxing will help preserve the finish. The antiqued metal can be left as is, lacquered or waxed. If you are satisfied with the color then dry the item quickly and evenly, avoid leaving wet spots as these will invariably turn darker when dry. If it is too dark then a scotch-brite pad will quickly take you back to clean metal and you can try again. If the color is still too light simply return to the antiquing solution. Rinse the item under hot water and clean off the powdery residue with a sponge or a scotch-brite pad for an immediate highlighted effect. ![]() If you prefer an even tone remove the item when it appears the right color. If you expect to highlight your finish you should let the darkening progress past the tone you ultimately want. You will notice the color develop in a matter of moments, at first a coppery pink that darkens through red brown and eventually a brown black. Submerge the items in the solution and agitate to remove air bubbles that would otherwise result as bright spots on the metal. Prepare a dilute solution of one part antiquing solution to 10 parts room temperature water in a ceramic or plastic bowl large enough to accommodate your items. Wear rubber household gloves and work in a well ventilated area during the whole of the following procedure. I recent years it has become easier to buy hardware in a polished but unlacquered finish, if possible you should buy this finish (usually classified as US3A, MB3A or PBA). Modern lacquers are becoming extremely durable and the task of their removal can be the hardest part of the job. If the item is lacquered this coating must be removed either chemically with acetone or paint stripper or mechanically with abrasives. The first and most important task is to thoroughly clean the brass. You should be sure you are dealing with solid brass as neither brass plated steel or zinc will antique predictably. The process is substantially the same regardless of which brand of solution is chosen. These solutions are a dilute mixture of acids, copper sulphate and sometimes additional chemicals to improve color consistancy and resistance to contamination. This method involves dipping clean and unlacquered brass in a proprietary antiquing solution.
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