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This series was followed by a somewhat different series called Wacky Ads in 1969, featuring parodies and roughs by Jay Lynch and Kim Deitch, with finished paintings by Tom Sutton. In all, 14 of the 44 cards were pulled from the series, all of them due to cease-and-desist letters sent to Topps by the companies that, at the time, owned the products being parodied. "Moron Salt" was pulled later and replaced by "Jolly Mean Giant", which was also pulled soon after that. Two of the cards – "Cracked Animals" and "Ratz Crackers" – were pulled from production after the initial run. This series featured parodies created by Art Spiegelman and primarily painted by Norm Saunders. The very first Wacky Packages series was produced in 1967 and featured 44 die-cut cards that were made to be punched out, licked on the back and stuck to surfaces. Relying on the talents of such cartoonists and comics artists as Kim Deitch, George Evans, Drew Friedman, Bill Griffith, Jay Lynch, Norman Saunders, Art Spiegelman, Bhob Stewart and Tom Sutton, the cards spoofed well-known brands and packaging. There were 16 series produced between 19, with some reprints and several new series released up to the present day.Īt the height of their popularity from 1973 to 1975, Wacky Packages were the best-selling Topps product, even more popular than Topps baseball cards, when they were by far the most sold trading card items in the United States. The cards were produced by Topps beginning in 1967, first in die-cut, then in peel-and-stick sticker format. Original 19 Wacky Packages cards can also be found.Wacky Packages are a series of humorous trading cards featuring parodies of consumer products. Randomly inserted are redemptions for uncut sheets. Finally, there are five Where Are They Now cards (1:8 packs) that take an old gag and gives it a modern makeover. Lost Wackys (ten cards, 1:6 packs) follows a similar concept for more cards that were cut. Cutting Room Floor (20 cards, 1:4 packs) takes abandoned gags and sees them through to completion for the first time. Reprinting a set from 1969, these cards are inserted 1:3 packs. The product also has several basic insert sets. 2014 Topps Wacky Packages Chrome has about 2,000 sketch cards total. The drawing is a little smaller than traditional sketch cards to accommodate the frame. There are approximately 1,100 signed cards across the product's print run.Ĭhrome Framed Sketch Cards deliver original artwork from Wacky Packages artists. All of his signatures are done on base cards. Wacky Packages co-creator, Len Brown has autographs in the set. All base cards also have four Printing Plates. Superfractors represent the toughest chase. Blue Refractors are limited to 50 copies each while Gold Refractors are limited to 25. These give a rainbow finish to the cards. The entire set has several Refractor parallels. These are followed by 33 and 30 cards from the pair of Wacky Packages products released in 1973. The first 44 reprint the original 1967 set that kicked it all off. The 2014 Topps Wacky Packages Chrome base set has 110 cards. Besides the upgraded base cards, highlights include multiple levels of Refractors, autographs and sketch cards. The release takes the original three sets released in 19 and gives them a modern chromium spin. Past and present collide with 2014 Topps Wacky Packages Chrome. but I'd like to exhaust all options first. cause it will be cheaper than burning through ink. I just don't want to have to replace the entire thing. I'm willing to take the thing apart if necessary. I've burned through almost $100 worth of ink in the past 6 months for about 10 sheets of paper.ĪNY suggestions or solutions would be greatly greatly appreciated. I have checked the gaskets, cleaned the printhead, cleaned the cartridges, use only HP cartridges, checked for any driver or software updates and have not yet found a solution to solve this. It seems like this is a problem that a few people have experienced with this model. By estimation this started happening about 6 months ago. as stated, it gets VERY little use and it in almost new condition other than this recent ink leak. I've done some searching and read other posts on this board, but I really do not want to have to replace my printer. I removed the cartridge and looked inside the printer and ALL of the black ink was pooled on the sponge under where the printhead lives in it's dormant state. For Chromebooks, on the sign in screen, press Alt + v. Grasp the sides of the printhead, and then lift up to remove it. Lift the carriage latch handle to unlock the printhead. Remove each ink cartridge by pressing the front tab, and then lifting the cartridge. Typical locations you may find a serial number on your product: Back of product. With the printer on, open the ink cartridge access door, and then wait until the carriage stops. Recently I just replaced the cartridge and then next day it was empty. Enter your serial number to view full product specs. One new cartridge was only printing one or two sheets of paper (I don't print often, weeks to months can pass in between printing needs). Recently I noticed I was running out of black in rapidly. To bypass the message on the printer the only option left is to perform an OOBE reset and re-initialize the printer. Dont worry as Ill be glad to help, I understand you do not have the setup ink cartridges. I have a Photosmart 5520 which is about 6-7 years old and is in excellent condition other than this new found problem. Thank you for posting on HP Support Community. Business PCs, Workstations and Point of Sale Systems.Printer Wireless, Networking & Internet.DesignJet, Large Format Printers & Digital Press.Printing Errors or Lights & Stuck Print Jobs.Notebook Hardware and Upgrade Questions.Once I clear the jam there is still the matter of where, why and how the ink is leaking. It's too bad because I LOVED the quality of the prints and the convenience of printing from home.Īnyone want some cartridges? Posting on the off chance there is an obvious solution I'm missing. Clearly I'm buying a new printer and I doubt it will be HP. I still have a printer jam and BRAND NEW ink cartridges. There is no way to even get a bit of it with a tool or fingernails. I read the how-to's and watched the video and when I got to the part about turning the printer around to check from the back I got a big surprise - black ink in a big gooey gob underneath the printer!! I am still wiping layers of it off of the desktop, the power cord, every nook and cranny on the entire bottom of the printer and now my hands. Even when I move them out of the way I can't find any moving parts or platen knobs to help ease the paper out. I can see it inside just behind the ink cartridges. I decided to give it a go with all new ink cartridges and I ended up with a paper jam from the photo tray. After replacing ink WAY too often - and getting repeat messages that my genuine HP Photosmart ink cartridges were not the real thing (grrr) - I went back to ordering my prints online at Walgreens and Walmart because I didn't have time to look into the problem. So how does one get help with this if you don't have an extended warranty? Today I discovered ink leaking PROFUSELY when I was troubleshooting a jam. Rider will adjust these awards according to the reduced need, which means that out of pocket costs to students will remain similar. But for new students who receive the new, lower advertised tuition, the need for financial aid will also be lower. Ninety-nine percent of all students currently receive Rider-funded scholarships and financial aid - a percentage that is not expected to change under the new model, according to the statement. Under the new tuition model, Rider will continue to generously award financial aid and scholarships. This September, Rider is scheduled to open the new space for its Center For Diversity and Inclusion, a cornerstone in promoting a safe and welcoming physical environment and campus climate that garners a sense of belonging for the University’s diverse community, according to the statement. For example, this July, Rider launched the new Student Navigation Office, which is designed to provide students with a proactive approach to success coaching that consists of a robust support system connecting them to their academic, social, career-oriented needs and resources. The move continues Rider’s ongoing investment in infrastructure to provide more support so students understand and take advantage of Rider’s outstanding academic, social and career resources. To make this possible, Rider is investing heavily in Career Development and Success with new staff, enhanced technologies and other additional resources so students have the support they need to develop on-the-job skills, build their resumes and make valuable connections, according to the statement. Our priority is to build on this knowledge so that we are doing everything within our power to help ensure Rider students are prepared to succeed professionally immediately following graduation.” “Launching our Engaged Learning Program confirmed that experiences like internships are directly correlated with career preparedness. “More than ever, students want to know that their education will directly lead to a positive outcome upon graduation,” Kim Barberich, the executive director of Rider’s Office of Career Development and Success, said in the statement. Although the current Engaged Learning Program, which launched in 2017, already requires students to participate in meaningful co-curricular experiences in order to graduate, the new measures double down on those experiences most likely to lead to career success. Rider has set a new target that 95% of all students, beginning with the Class of 2025, will participate in enriched career preparation experiences such as internships, fieldwork and co-ops across all disciplines, including the arts, sciences, business and more. The changes are designed to bolster the university’s already strong record of preparing students for successful careers, according to the statement. After careful analysis, we determined that providing more immediate clarity to the actual final cost of a Rider education would serve prospective students, the institution and the state of New Jersey better.”Īlong with changes to tuition, Rider is also announcing adjustments to its signature Engaged Learning Program. “The new tuition rate also aims to keep more New Jersey students from leaving the state to attend public or private institutions at out-of-state tuition rates that are similar. “While we’re very proud of our ongoing commitment to providing financial aid, which will not change, the current model creates a significant hurdle for students and families who believe the sticker price immediately puts a Rider education financially out of reach,” Vice President of Enrollment Management Drew Aromando said in the statement. Like many universities, Rider currently follows a complex pricing model that provides substantial discounts through scholarships and financial aid. “Because a college education remains one of the most important investments individuals can make in their lifetimes, our goal is to help lift any barrier that prevents a student from thriving at Rider University, including those who assume a private education is out of reach based solely on the sticker price.” “These new measures continue our bold action to provide an exceptional educational value for our students,” Rider President Gregory G. The new initiative, called Lifting Barriers, is designed to help students break through significant obstacles they face in obtaining a college education and a successful career, including understanding the true cost of college and the ability to adapt, both socially and academically, in a college environment and beyond, according to information provided by Rider on Sept. Once that is finished, the way my roms are set up in a directory - all systems have their own folders and they are all under one EMU folder. This is really the only tedious part going through this list and adding each core one at a time. Once the flatpak version is installed I run it, I go to online updater and add the cores for the systems I have. I much prefer the flathub version of retroarch. I know people love Steam but I personally only use it when I absolutely have to. While I agree with a lot of what you are saying here is how it usually goes for me:įirst I don't use steam's version. My experience is a little different than yours. Gnome Games could be that app, but it tries to do too many things (big surprise really) and it's progressing very slowly. but on the desktop is just a horrible experience.ĭesktop Linux needs a nice, simple, attractive app just like OpenEmu on MacOS. I get that RA is meant to work everywhere, from handhelds to dedicated SBCs attached to big TVs and so on. Adding roms is so uncomfortable, adding required bioses and other stuff is a big question mark. Don't know why and don't know how to fix. Right now I'm getting a warning about missing assets, and in fact, every icon in the UI is missing. In reality, it's a pita to setup, even on Steam. Quoting: GuestIn theory, RetroArch is the best thing ever. Flycast - Sega Dreamcast, Naomi and Atomiswave emulator.Ĭurrently, a few of them don't have the Linux builds available but the RetroArch team said to expect them shortly.īe honest - how many of you will be loading all this up on the Steam Deck? Going to be an absolutely fantastic device for emulation fans and being on Steam should hopefully make it painless to get going.BlastEm - SEGA Genesis / Mega Drive emulator.Instead of grabbing these cores directly in the application, they're being put up as individual DLC to download. The Steam release for RetroArch is a little different to the normal version. RetroArch, the free and open source application designed to help you manage emulators, media playback and more has a few additional emulator cores available now on Steam.Ĭores are essentially the modules that RetroArch runs to do things, like run different emulators. Though entirely plastic, this 15.6-inch model feels surprisingly sturdy, especially for a model in its price range. The best laptop for gaming we've tested in the cheap category is the Lenovo IdeaPad Gaming 3 (2021). As for portability, this laptop isn't overly bulky or heavy, but you'll have to bring the charger, as the battery lasts only a little over an hour when gaming. Thermal throttling is minimal, but the laptop gets hot and loud. Ports include two USB-As, two USB-C/Thunderbolt 4s, an HDMI, and an Ethernet port. There are three display options: two 1080p (144Hz or 300Hz) and a 1440p 165Hz panel unfortunately, none support VRR to reduce screen tearing. The RAM and storage drive are user-replaceable, so if you're on a strict budget, you can get a cheaper configuration to start and upgrade later. These last-generation CPUs and GPUs provide smooth gameplay, though in the case of the GPU, you do lose Frame Generation, a feature that boosts frame rates using AI. You can get this 15.6-inch model with an Intel 12th Gen Core i5 or i7 CPU paired with an NVIDIA 30-series discrete GPU, up to an RTX 3070. The best budget gaming laptop we've tested is the ASUS TUF Dash F15 (2022). Unfortunately, this laptop and its power adapter are bulky and heavy, and the battery lasts less than five hours of light use. The fans get pretty loud, but on the upside, neither the CPU nor the GPU throttles under load, so you won't get performance dips when playing for an extended period. It has a tactile, full-size keyboard, Wi-Fi 6E wireless connectivity, and tons of ports, including an HDMI 2.1 and Ethernet. It doesn't feel as premium as the Dell above, but is sturdy. Both displays have a fast response time and support VRR to reduce screen tearing. As for the display, you can choose between a 165Hz or a 240Hz QHD+ IPS panel. You can get up to 32GB of RAM and 1TB of storage both are user-replaceable. This 16-inch model is available with AMD Ryzen 7000 CPUs and NVIDIA GeForce RTX 40-series GPUs, but unlike our top pick, you can only get up to an RTX 4070 GPU. Our best mid-range pick is the Lenovo Legion Pro 5 Gen 8 16 (2023). It has near-identical configuration options, performance, and features as its smaller sibling. If you only intend to play at home and want a larger, more immersive display, you can go with the 18-inch Dell Alienware m18 (2023). Unfortunately, this is a pretty chunky laptop, so it isn't very portable, and its battery lasts less than an hour when gaming. You can get this laptop directly from Dell if you have trouble finding it elsewhere. If you game online, you'd be happy to hear it has Wi-Fi 6E and an Ethernet port to ensure a reliable internet connection. RAM and storage max out at 64GB and 8.5TB, respectively both are user-replaceable. Even the keyboard is customizable, as you can get it with scissor or low-profile CherryMX mechanical switches. Display options include two QHD+ panels (165Hz or 240Hz) and an FHD+ 480Hz panel, so you can choose based on your preference and CPU/GPU configuration. It's available with fast AMD Ryzen 7000 CPUs and various discrete AMD and NVIDIA GPUs, up to an RTX 4090. This 16-inch model provides an amazing gaming experience. The best gaming laptop we've tested is the Dell Alienware m16 R1 (2023). You can also see our recommendations for the best laptops, the best budget and cheap gaming laptops, and the best Windows laptops. Below are our recommendations for the best gaming laptops you can buy. If you plan on gaming on the go, you'll also want to look at the laptop's portability and battery life. If you don't plan on using a headset, you might want to look at the fan noise, as most gaming laptops can get pretty loud under load. A good keyboard helps, too, as you'd want one that can give you clear tactile feedback and won't cause fatigue over long gaming sessions. When shopping for the best gaming laptop, you'd want to focus on a few aspects, like its CPU and GPU performance, performance over time (thermal throttling), as well as the display's refresh rate, motion performance, and VRR support. Buying a gaming laptop is challenging as there are many options, with new models released every year sporting increasingly more powerful CPUs and GPUs. i on my own personal system i use disktrix or puran.ĭisktrix does take some learning imo but it is a very powerful tool when you know how and also when it works properly lol. i also own lic's to o&o (newest i got them for free from someone i know), pd11 and diskeeper. free will do just fine for me after this. also its boot time is a complete defrag not just 2 things.Īfter paying for and having to deal with disktrix i will never again buy into a defrag program. sometimes i cant believe actually how fast it runs even on older systems. it has a excellent boot time defragger and does a very good job over all with file placement and is FAST FAST FAST compared to many others mentioned. My free choice would be puran defrag HANDS DOWN. and 2 because it is a tiny footprint and uses very little resources without the added junk others include. i own paid lic's which to be honest i would have never paid for going in knowing the level of service they provide. I use disktrix currently mainly for 2 reasons. why do i need a system optimizer or a "free space" button etc. i personally dont want a defragger to have every thing under the sun included just like many are doing with av's now. i turned off EVERY option for any kind of auto anything and also killed it on startup and it still each time you run it starts the procc's over again and then they continue to run after that. O&o i find i actually like but like pd11 why does it need to run all the things when not being used. there is NO WAY its defragging the mft and pagefile etc in a matter of like 3 seconds flat which is about how long it takes on the three pc's i tried it on. also personally i dont think the boot time does much of anything. there is simply a defrag and a quick defrag. I just tried the newest defraggler beta and to be honest i think it *could* be a GREAT free alternative BUT it offers nothing in the way of any kind of placement. i also found the newest pd11 imo to be pretty slow to defrag again imo. even if you turn off auto defrag with pd11 it still consumes memory and runs procc's in the backround just sitting there. The main thing i dont like about perfect disk as well as diskeeper and a few others is all the running procc's in the backround even while they are not being used. Simply fill in a few details like your height, weight, age, and more, and the calculator instantly determines your ideal macros based on your goals. Unlike other calculators, this one works for both a low carb or keto diet and walks you through all the calculations. No need to spend time calculating these figures yourself. How To Calculate Low Carb Macros Pin It For Later! Free Low Carb & Keto Macro CalculatorĪ quality keto macro calculator will help you determine ideal fat, protein, net carbs, and calories you should consume in a day. The protein ratio is used to calculate your daily protein goal, which is step 4 above. Notice that each has a range, and you can experiment with what feels comfortable for you and gets you the results you want. Athlete/bodybuilder: 1.2g protein per pound of lean body mass.High activity: 1.0g to 1.2g protein per pound of lean body mass.Moderate activity: 0.8g to 1g protein per pound of lean body mass.Light activity: 0.7g to 0.9g protein per pound of lean body mass.Sedentary: 0.6g to 0.8g protein per pound of lean body mass.With your daily activity level in mind, here are guidelines to help determine your protein ratio: Too much protein strains your kidneys and keeps you out of ketosis, while too little protein will cause you to lose muscle mass. It sounds a little complicated, but this ratio is especially useful if you follow a keto diet. This ratio helps you figure out how much protein you should eat on keto. Your protein ratio is measured as the number of grams per kilogram of lean body weight (aka, everything except fat), accounting for your typical activity level. Image source: How To Get The Protein Ratio For Macro Calculations If you don’t have these either, compare how you look visually to these to get a very general estimate: If you want to measure at home, the easiest way is to use skin calipers. How To Determine Your Body Fat Percentage For Macro Calculationsīody fat percentage can be calculated using various scanners (like a DEXA scan at a gym or doctor’s office) for the highest accuracy. Grams of fat to eat = goal caloric intake X percent fat / 9 Percent fat = 100% – percent carbs – percent protein (Get net carb counts for virtually every keto food via the printable keto food list!) When you do eat carbs, it’s best to get most of them from keto vegetables and keto fruit. Learn more about how to calculate net carbs here! This is because fiber, sugar alcohols and allulose either don’t get absorbed or don’t get metabolized, meaning they don’t spike blood sugar or affect ketosis. On keto, you will most likely focus on counting net carbs, which exclude fiber, sugar alcohols, and allulose. Too many carbs will prevent your body from entering ketosis, which is why we limit them so much on a keto diet. Carbohydrates break down into sugar in the body, and also trigger an insulin response, which (among many other functions) signals your body to store body fat. Protein is crucial for hundreds of body processes, as well as maintaining lean body mass. Protein is made up of amino acids, which are the building blocks of our cells. So, when it comes to keto macros, you’ll get the majority of your calories from fat. On a keto diet, you enter a state called ketosis, where fat is your primary source of fuel. One gram of fat is 9 calories’ worth of energy. Choosing food with different macro ratios can help you tailor your meals to meet your diet goals.Įach type of macro has a caloric value, which determines the calorie count on a nutrition label. They are the fat, protein, and carbohydrates that give your food an energy value, and you can find them on nutrition labels. Macros is a shortened term for macronutrients. How To Calculate Macros For a Low Carb Diet.You can use that to access your saved recipes at My Favorites. RECIPE SAVED! The recipe was sent to your email. This shelf can sit on three blocks of wood to ensure it remains level. Cut a piece of plywood to make a shelf that will sit a few inches off the bottom. We use the white buckets sometimes called "Pickle buckets" that can easily be obtained from hardware stores, breweries and many other sources, any other well sealed plastic container will work. You will need a plastic container with a tight lid. The following instructions will allow you to patina smaller items with relative ease, the same principals can be adapted for larger pieces. This oxide layer is as close as you can come to a natural patina. When brass is exposed to an atmosphere of ammonia vapor it develops a green brown oxide finish. If you try to reach black in a single dipping the color will wipe off. It is possible to turn brass to a graphite like black following the process outlined above, but you will usually need to dip the item at least twice and clean the residue off the surface between dipping. If left unprotected it will continue to age, lacquering or waxing will help preserve the finish. The antiqued metal can be left as is, lacquered or waxed. If you are satisfied with the color then dry the item quickly and evenly, avoid leaving wet spots as these will invariably turn darker when dry. If it is too dark then a scotch-brite pad will quickly take you back to clean metal and you can try again. If the color is still too light simply return to the antiquing solution. Rinse the item under hot water and clean off the powdery residue with a sponge or a scotch-brite pad for an immediate highlighted effect. If you prefer an even tone remove the item when it appears the right color. If you expect to highlight your finish you should let the darkening progress past the tone you ultimately want. You will notice the color develop in a matter of moments, at first a coppery pink that darkens through red brown and eventually a brown black. Submerge the items in the solution and agitate to remove air bubbles that would otherwise result as bright spots on the metal. Prepare a dilute solution of one part antiquing solution to 10 parts room temperature water in a ceramic or plastic bowl large enough to accommodate your items. Wear rubber household gloves and work in a well ventilated area during the whole of the following procedure. I recent years it has become easier to buy hardware in a polished but unlacquered finish, if possible you should buy this finish (usually classified as US3A, MB3A or PBA). Modern lacquers are becoming extremely durable and the task of their removal can be the hardest part of the job. If the item is lacquered this coating must be removed either chemically with acetone or paint stripper or mechanically with abrasives. The first and most important task is to thoroughly clean the brass. You should be sure you are dealing with solid brass as neither brass plated steel or zinc will antique predictably. The process is substantially the same regardless of which brand of solution is chosen. These solutions are a dilute mixture of acids, copper sulphate and sometimes additional chemicals to improve color consistancy and resistance to contamination. This method involves dipping clean and unlacquered brass in a proprietary antiquing solution.
The brightest stars are 1st magnitude, even zeroth (0th) magnitude, like Vega, which is defined as being magnitude 0.0 (it’s actually 0.03). It’s a reverse scale, so lower numbers – even negative numbers – are brighter. The brightness of everything in the sky is measured in magnitudes. To explain this, let’s discuss magnitude. There isn’t a whole lotta difference in light gathering capacity between the 8 and the 10, even though it seems like there should be, especially given the approximately two hundred dollar difference in price between 8-inch dobs and 10-inchers. Do this one cloudy night after getting off a long day at work.Įven if you lift, bro, and you’re okay with the extra weight, there’s still the matter of aperture itself. Carry that box from your house out to your observing site. Now repeat the test and put all 4 gallon jugs (and the 1/2 gallon jug if you’re considering the AD10) into the box – that’s the weight of the 10-inch tube, and that’s how you’d be carrying it, too. Then carry it by cradling it – arms underneath the box, box at your chest. A gallon of water weighs just over 8 lbs.įor the XT8, put 2 gallon jugs and the 1/2 gallon jug in the box for the AD8, put 3 gallons in there. Get 4 one-gallon milk jugs (save ’em up as you drink ’em), and a 1/2 gallon jug, too. Get a nice big sturdy shipping box, a box from something you ordered online. Before buying the scope, if you want to see how heavy that tube is, and use the same muscles to carry it, try this test. The 10-inch? Not quite as much, depending on whether 30 pounds is a lot for you to carry out to your observing spot. The 8-inch dob provides the perfect balance between large aperture with portability. Ah, well another night of observing lost. Instead of going out and doing some observing like you really want to, you crack open a beer, ease back into the couch, and watch some more Seinfeld reruns. But instead, in your exhausted state, you look over at that huge, heavy, water heater-sized dob sitting in the corner, and just sigh. You’re absolutely itching to get the scope out. The sky is finally clear for the first time in weeks, and the moon isn’t out to light pollute your view and wash everything out. You’ve just come home from a long, hard day at work or school. Heavy to the point of not actually using the scope as much as you would otherwise want to. Being your standard weakling nerd, which most of us in astronomy tend to be, and speaking on behalf of all my fellow weakling nerds, I find that things start to get really heavy once you get over 30 lbs. total, with 24 1/2 in the tube and 27 1/2 in the base. The Apertura AD8, sold by High Point Scientific (which is the same model as the Orion Skyline 8″, and both of which are built in the same factory in Taiwan called GSO), is probably the best of the mass-marketed line of dobs out there, in my opinion. Orion’s Intelliscope versions of each of these apertures weigh basically the same, as do Skywatcher’s dobs. The XT10 is a total of 53.4 lbs., with the tube being 50% heavier than the XT8 at about 31 lbs., and the remaining 22 1/2 lbs. This relatively light weight is just another reason why the 8-inch dob is right at that sweet spot for beginners of practically any age. Orion’s XT8, probably the most popular 8-inch dob out there, is 41 lbs., which breaks down almost exactly evenly between the tube and the base at about 20 1/2 lbs. Let’s first take a look at the weight differences between two popular lines of 8 and 10-inch dobs. Obviously, because of the increased aperture, you’re getting two things: more weight and more light. (Note the word “might” there.) There are two main differences between a 10-inch and an 8. No, this is more of a heads-up as to the differences between these two popular sizes of dobs, the 8 and the 10, and why, unless you’re a gym rat, you might not want to buy a 10-inch dob instead of an 8. No, no, this isn’t yet another anti-dob rant longtime readers will know that I actually do like dobs. Tags 6mm 8mm 9.7mm 10mm 15mm 32mm AAA Arcturus binoviewers astrophotography atmospheric dispersion Baader binoculars binoviewers Bird-Jones Burnham's Celestial Handbook C9.25 Celestron collimate collimation customer service dark adaptation DAS DAS Dark site Denver Astronomical Society diagonal exit pupil Explore Scientific eyepieces field of view filter Great Orion Nebula Great Red Spot integrated magnitude Jupiter kellner light-polluted light pollution Light pollution reduction filter Luminos lunar eclipse Maksutov Mars Meade Messier meteor shower moon Moon & Skyglow Moon and Skyglow mount observing report observing session Orion Orion Sirius Pro AZ/EQ-G ortho orthoscopic outreach Perseids plossl red-dot finder Saturn science seeing Short Tube 80 Skywatcher SLT solar filter solar observing ST-80 star party Stellarium TeleVue trapezium Ultrablock Ultrascopic upgrade Archivesįollow Light-Polluted Astronomy on |
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